So I made it to Munich. And through Austria to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Then to Zagreb, Croatia and even Trieste, Italy--each for a day. I wanted to post pictures, but USB cords etc. were too much work for these super slow, NOT free (false advertising!!) computers.
Anyway, we'd planned on going to Piran, to see the Adriatic Sea and enjoy an old Venetian city without actually going to Italy, until Emma suggested we actually go to Italy. Trieste is closer to Ljubljana but mixed information tried to prevent us from a fourth country in 10 days--fifth, if you count Austria, which was all in a train. (I guess this proximity is the reason Slovenia claims to be the place "where all of Europe meets." One map said Ljubljana was the capital of the EU, which is so not true.
The point is, first we read the train took ridiculously long time, then that the only bus was at 6:25 am. Eventually we learned it was easier to switch buses in Koper, 30 minutes or so outside Trieste but still in Slovenia. Then we missed our bus due to misinformation.
But we didn't give up! We held onto our illogical belief that if it was nice in Florence (we'd heard it was), it would be nice in all of Italy--because of the centrally mandated weather.
We expected disappointment, but it was significantly warmer in Trieste than in Slovenia. The Adriatic was beautiful (if hazy), the sun was warm and bright, and the gelato was delicious. Mmm three scoops on two visits to one shop. We also pondered the existence of centrally mandated pizza quality, and even I ate one. It was pretty tasty, despite all that tomato on it. (There wasn't that much...but for me it was a lot.)
It's kind of weird to connect central mandates with Italy, though, considering the whole city-state, not-unified-most-of-the-time thing. Also, Trieste was Triest (Deutsch), southern port of Habsburg Austria--not even Italy!
I think it's so funny that Captain von Trapp (Sound of Music!) was no longer in the navy in the thirties BECAUSE AUSTRIA HAD LOST ALL ITS COASTLINE. Maybe that's not actually hilarious. Whatever. It's one of the important things I learned while researching (not-researching) my history Hausarbeit.
4 comments:
I understand Trieste is around 70 miles from Venice. I am visiting Venice and wish to make a day (or overnight trip) to Trieste. What did you like best about Trieste? The appeal for me would be that after Venice, it would feel like another country --more Moorish, as it were. ts. (Noblog, hence, anonymous)
Sights in Trieste :
Miramare Castle and especially a walk in the garden – walk to the Sphinx near the beach;
Piazza Unità d’Italia, the biggest open place facing the sea in Europe with nearby the Opera Teatro Verdi and Corso Italia, a shopping street;
Castle San Giusto, church, lapidarian with epitaph for Mr Winkelmann, “father” of Archaeology;
Drinks & Food
Cafè Illy for the best coffee in town, straight behind the church San Antonio near Piazza San Giovanni; for a drink before dinner top barman;
Malabar, Piazza San Giovanni: best choice for a local wine tasting; talk to Walter, the owner!
Pirona, Largo Barriera 12: superb little antique coffee shop; for a coffee + dessert
Rex, on the corner Piazza Borsa – Corso Italia: hippest place for a downtown aperitif together with Circus, Via San Lazzaro 9
For further comments see http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Italy/Friuli_Venezia_Giulia/Trieste-141314/Nightlife-Trieste-BR-1.html
Chic & expensive: Ristorante Le Vele (for a drink and/or dinner): Viale Miramare, on the corner of crossing to the castle Miramare within a hotel complex
Chic, near to my flat and the best pizza and chicken in town: La Casablanca Riva T. Gulli, 4, Trieste 040 301065 (booking!)
Near the water & nice seafood or just for a drink: Tavernetta al Molo, Port of Grignano (on the coastal road after Miramare tunnel turn down towards the beach);
Same direction, yet turn right when you arrive at the parking; there’s a pedestrian passage passing a sort of tunnel, take the first entrance: Tiki, beach bar; best location for a drink + sunset.
For seafood in a nice, yet modern ambiente: Antica Ghiacceretta, Via dei Fornelli 2 (not far from my appartment); talk to the owner, Bruno
Classic Austrian food and a must place to see once: Buffet da Pepi, near Piazza Borsa in Via Cassa di Risparmio 3: pig, craut, sausages.. let them mix you a plate to taste with a draft beer.
Visit the beaches along the coastal road, turning towards Miramare castle.
I like most the Ginestre, beach with parking halfway to Sistana on the coastal road.
Talk to someone to bring you in a nice Osmiza, place where you can taste local wine terrano (an acid red wine), ham and cheese: Ask or simply go and look for a pine bush branch in Sgonico (north from Trieste), Monrupino (northeast from Trieste).
The hinterland of Trieste is very very nice, yet you might get lost! Take a good map and your identity card in case you must cross the border to Slovenia.
Try to go to Lipica in Slovenia; just a few km from the border to Trieste/Italy – border station is Sezana.
http://www.lipica.org/?vie=cnt&str=12_eng
There are the renown Lipizzaner horses, a beautiful golf course! Let Fabio bring you there!!! Talk to the pro Andrej and send him my best regards!
Also with someone try to fix a visit at KANTE, the most famous wine maker in Trieste. Kante is in Località Prepotto 1/A, Duino Aurisina, Phone +39 040 200255 or mobile +39 348 4446808. Talk to Edi Kante, the owner and winemaker, bring him my regards (from Ingrid, the Austrian with the sweet wine).
If you are riding towards Gorizia, north of Trieste in direction Udine (beautiful landscape) try to have lunch at Trattoria Devetak, San Michele del Carso, 48 in Savogna d’Isonzo (closed on Monday and Tuesday).
This place is not far from Gradisca, another tiny little town in Friuli region.
Thank you, anonymous#2 for the great travel information. I may need more than a day trip! ts
Wow, I wish I'd known all that when I was in Trieste, thanks for all the information. Sorry to Anonymous 1, I don't have a lot of time on the internet. We were only in Trieste about 5 hours due to missing the bus we wanted, so the main attraction was the water and getting to eat some Italian food.
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